DIY – How To Make A Milking Table. Read This Before You Start Drilling
So you’re wondering how to make a milking table? You’ve seen a couple of Reddit posts. Maybe a grainy video. Perhaps a blog from 2014 with a 2×4, some plywood, and a power drill.
Milking tables have become a niche piece of furniture that you won’t find at IKEA, but that doesn’t mean you can’t make one yourself. The most affordable and convenient way to begin is with a portable massage table, which can be found on Amazon for around $80–$120. With some modifications, you can cut an access hole and create a DIY version at home.
But there are tradeoffs: keeping the padding intact, dealing with support cables, and making sure there’s enough clearance for the person underneath. Below, we’ll walk you through the process step by step, and then compare it to ready-made professional options.
Step 1: Choosing the Right Base Table
Most DIY builds start with a portable massage table. If you search “massage table” on Amazon, you’ll see dozens of options averaging around $100
Price & Reviews
$80–$120
The sweet spot is $80–$120
4.5
Always filter for at least 4.5★ average reviews
200+
200+ total ratings.
Deck (Top) Material
Go for Wood, Not Aluminum
A wooden deck is the only realistic option. Ideally, MDF (medium-density fiberboard). MDF is easy to drill, doesn’t splinter like plywood, and takes upholstery staples well when you re-stretch the cover.
Avoid aluminum deck cores (sometimes marketed as “lightweight” or “aerospace panels”). They’re harder to cut, create sharp burrs, and usually cost much more.
Look for a deck thickness around ½”–¾”. Too thin, and the area around the cutout will flex. Too thick, and it becomes harder to cut. (This might not always be mentioned on the product page, but to be honest, most tables at the mentioned price range have a good thickness of board.
Frame & Underside Layout
- Best case: A frame with no diagonal cables underneath. This leaves the underside wide open, which makes entry and positioning easier.
- Reality check: Most affordable massage tables do have support cables. They’re what keep the frame stable at a low price point.
- Tradeoff: If a table doesn’t have cables, it usually also doesn’t offer adjustable height. These fixed-height models are less versatile.
- Bottom line: Decide which matters more for you:
- No cables = easier entry, but usually fixed height.
- With cables = adjustable height and portability, but less clearance underneath.
Height
Adjustable Height (Clearance Matters)
Clearance under the table is critical. You don’t want the person underneath squeezed into a 20-inch gap.
Standard massage tables adjust between 24″–34″. For most builds, you’ll want to set it on the higher end — 30″–34″ — to give enough room underneath.
Make sure the legs have locking knobs or push pins to keep them secure at higher settings.
Width
Width & Size
Many cheap massage tables are only 27″ wide. That’s fine for massage, but for this use, they can feel cramped and less stable.
If you or your partner is on the heavier side, look for an extra-wide massage table — 30″–32″ wide. These cost a bit more but feel sturdier and provide more comfort.
Length should be at least 70–72″, so you don’t run into hinge points or face-cradle brackets when cutting.
Deck (Top) Material
Padding & Upholstery
Foam should be at least 2″ thick, high-density. Thinner foam feels harsh once modified and will wear out quickly.
The cover should be PU leather (faux leather) with double stitching. It’s flexible, easy to re-stretch, and much better for reupholstery than stiff PVC.
Look for tables with a smooth wooden underside lip — you’ll need that to staple the upholstery back neatly after cutting.
Hinges & Hardware Placement
You’ll cut the hole near the head/face end. Make sure the main hinge, bolts, or brackets aren’t located in the area where you’ll be cutting.
Detachable face-cradle hardware is fine — you can remove that before modification.
Drillability & Reinforcement
Standard cutout size: 12–14 inches in diameter.
A large hole saw is ideal, but you can also drill a starter hole and use a jigsaw with a circle jig. MDF cuts cleanly this way.
Reinforce the cutout with a PVC pipe ring or similar to protect the foam and upholstery edge. You can also glue or screw a thin wooden ring underneath for extra stability.
Quick Checklist
(Pass/Fail in 30 Seconds)
- Price: $80–$120 with 4.5★+ reviews
- Deck: MDF wood, ~½”–¾” thick
- Frame: with or without cables (choose your compromise)
- Adjustable height to at least 32–34″
- Width: 30″–32″ preferred, avoid 27″ unless necessary
- Foam: 2″ thick minimum, PU cover
- Hinges/bolts clear of head-end cut zone
Step 2:
Mark & Cut the Opening
Mark the position
Measure about 5 inches above the fold at the head/face end.
Trace a 12–14 inch circle (or rectangle) centered left-to-right.
A 12-inch circle works for smaller builds, but 14 circle is safer for most.
Cut the Opening
Option 1
Cutting with a Jigsaw (best for rectangles or custom sizes)
Drill a ½ inch starter hole just inside the line you traced.
This hole is where you’ll insert the jigsaw blade.
Make sure to drill straight down through the wooden board of the massage table.
Insert the jigsaw blade into the starter hole.
Slowly follow the line of your circle or rectangle.
For a rectangle, cut straight lines and then gently round the corners to avoid stress cracks later.
Don’t force the blade — let it cut at its own pace to keep edges clean.
Once the cutout drops out, sand the inside edge with 120-grit sandpaper until smooth.
Option 2
Cutting with a Round Hole Saw (fastest for circles only)
Once the cut is complete, sand the inside edge smooth with 120-grit paper.
Use a 12–14 inch hole saw attachment on a power drill (these are large, so make sure your drill can handle it).
Clamp the massage table securely before drilling — large hole saws generate torque.
Place the pilot bit of the hole saw on your marked center point and apply steady, even pressure.
Keep the drill perfectly vertical — any angle will bind the blade.
Stop occasionally to clear sawdust, which helps prevent burning the wood.
Which method should you use?
- If you’re going for a simple circular hole, a round hole saw is the cleanest and fastest option.
- If you want a rectangular cutout (like our factory model for multi-user setups), you’ll need a jigsaw.
Step 3
Reinforce the Edges
Option 1
Upholstery Wrap Only (Basic DIY)
Trim back the foam around the cutout so it’s flush with the wood edge.
Pull the vinyl cover tightly inside the hole and staple it underneath with a heavy-duty staple gun.
Smooth down any sharp edges before stapling, or the cover may tear over time.
Pros: Cheapest, fastest, no extra parts needed.
Option 2
Plastic or PVC Edge Trim (Factory-Style Upgrade)
For a more professional finish, screw a custom-cut plastic ring onto the underside (see photo).
Buy a length of PVC pipe or U-channel trim that matches the thickness of your table board.
Cut it to fit snugly around the circle/rectangle.
Press-fit or glue the trim into the opening.
Option 3
Wooden/MDF Reinforcement Ring (Maximum Strength)
Cut a second ring or rectangle out of ½ inch MDF or plywood, slightly larger than your hole.
Place it underneath the cutout and screw it into the table deck.
Wrap upholstery or trim over both layers for extra rigidit
Pros: Extremely sturdy, load-bearing, long-lasting.
Step 4
Finish the Upholstery
Option 1
Upholstery Wrap (DIY Finish)
Trim off any excess material so it doesn’t bunch up underneath.
Pull the vinyl or PU leather cover tightly into the cutout.
Secure it underneath with a staple gun, working your way evenly around the edge.
This option is cheap and works fine, but the underside won’t look polished. It’s usually what you see in first-time DIY builds.
Option 2
Reinforced Plastic Edge (Factory Finish)
Instead of folding the upholstery in, add a plastic or PVC edge ring around the hole.
Screw or snap it into place to cover the raw edge of the wood.
The trim holds the cover in place neatly, preventing wear and tear over time.
Step 5
Add Privacy With a Curtain Skirt
How to do it (DIY method):
Buy a simple black curtain panel or fabric (polyester or blackout cloth works best).
Measure the perimeter of your massage table frame and cut the curtain to length.
Leave about 1–2 inches of extra fabric at the top for attaching.
Apply self-adhesive Velcro strips around the metal frame of the massage table.
Clean the frame with alcohol wipes before sticking, so it holds properly.
Sew or glue the matching Velcro strips to the top edge of your curtain.
Attach the curtain all around the table, leaving a discreet opening at the back for entry.
Why this works:
Easy to remove — the curtain strips off when you fold the table for storage.
Adds a sense of discretion and comfort for the person underneath.
Hides support cables or braces that would otherwise be visible.
Problems
The Real Problems With DIY Milking Tables
Bad Hole Placement
There’s a reason we spent weeks testing spacing and alignment. If the hole is off by even a few inches, the whole experience gets awkward fast. Most DIY builds guess the placement, which leads to bad angles, poor access, or worst of all — it just doesn’t feel good.
Unstable Legs = Dangerous Setup
We’ve seen DIY builds collapse mid-session. Seriously. Cheap folding legs, uneven cuts, or reused table parts make for wobbly, unpredictable furniture. And when someone’s under there, stability is non-negotiable.
Low Clearance = Cramped & Cranky
Most standard tables (even massage tables) are only 24–27 inches tall. That’s fine for a back rub. Not fine if you’re lying under it for 20+ minutes. Neck cramps and lumbago are real — and not sexy.
It Adds Up Fast
Think DIY is cheaper? Here’s a rough reality check:
Massage table: $100-120
Tools (jigsaw, drill, bits): $80–$150
Upholstery materials: $50–$100
Time: 6+ hours of work and testing
You’re already approaching $300
— and that’s for something that may not even work well.
What We Did Instead
We built a better solution — and made it accessible.
Our milking table with a glory hole is:
- Professionally designed & tested
- Built with soft, skin-friendly PU leather
- Has extra-thick padding
- Height optimized so no one gets sore
- Ships discreetly, looks clean, and works straight out of the box
We don’t mass-produce in a factory. Our tables are made in small batches in our overseas workshop — with all testing and design refinement happening in the U.S. by real people who’ve actually used them. (Yes, that’s part of the job.)
